Chanel, Christian Dior, Schiaparelli

Gabrielle Chanel is often attributed with the popularisation of costume jewelry or ‘Bijoux de Fantasie’. Chanel was well known in Paris moved in the most fashionable circles and was close friends with some of the richest and famous of the day. This was well represented in the style of jewelry she designed to compliment her clothing. She is well known for gold plated chains and pendant motifs but the best of Chanel has to be the hand poured ‘pate de verre’ jewels created for her by the craftspeople of Gripoix, Rousselet and Goossens. Christian Dior jewelry usually incorporates elegant style and superb quality of manufacture. In the hay days of the mid 1950’s to the early 1960’s manufacturing companies such as Henkle and Grosse, Maer, Schreiner and Kramer of New York used the highest quality crystal stones prong set into hand soldered settings. The better pieces are usually dated and always signed and very desirable indeed. Schiaparelli jewels occupy a very special place in the minds and souls of collectors. Known as Schiap, the jewels are much sought after and rightly so as the designs and quality of manufacture are very high indeed. Many of her pieces are ‘surrealist’ inspired and by her own account were required to amuse.